24 Hours in San Antonio
Words by Christine Van Dyk
Early in the morning as we strolled along the River Walk, we began to notice large crowds lining the streets of downtown San Antonio. With no idea what lay in store, my husband and I rushed after them to see what was happening. Imagine our surprise when we emerged onto Houston Street to see dozens of long-horned steer being herded through the center of the city. We’d stumbled upon the Western Heritage Parade & Cattle Drive.
Cowboys on horseback flanked the enormous animals while drag riders prodded the slower ones who’d fallen behind. After the lumbering herd had passed, women in ruffled Mexican fiesta dresses and rancheros with silver bolo ties and sombreros filled the streets. They were soon followed by mule-drawn wagons, a sassy lasso team, and the Texas A&M Mounted Calvary—all parading by in a celebration the size of Texarkeas.
When the last wagon had disappeared, we followed the parade-goers to the corner of Dolorosa and Santa Rosa Streets—after all, spontaneity had served us well so far. That’s how we ended up at the Historic Market Square.
“El Mercado” dates back to 1730 when it was gifted to the original settlers by the King of Spain. Farmers and butchers manned the noisy food stalls throughout the day, and at nighttime the “Chili Queens” doled out spicy beef stew they’d hauled to the market in their earthenware ollas. Today, this pedestrian market features 100 shops, restaurants, and produce stands that rest beneath fluttering banners of pecked paper tissue flags.
EAT — Visitors to El Mercado indulge themselves in a variety of Old World flavors—from the barrels of spices at Los Cocos to the Latin specialties of the Farmer’s Market Food Court to “the original” libations at La Margarita. One of our favorite stops was Mi Tierra, a traditional Mexican restaurant and panaderia bakery housed in an explosion of colorful decor and twinkling lights.
SHOP — Under the tin-shed roof, visitors and locals alike shop for hand-embroidered blouses, leather goods, and piñatas. It’s the place to score traditional western-wear belts and cowboy hats, but my favorite souvenirs were the authentic clay beer mugs.
PLAY — Parents can relax while the kids play at The Pass at Market Square. This urban recreational area features brightly-colored murals, ping-pong tables, and live entertainment.
After a hearty lunch and a few adult beverages, it was time to explore more of the city. We rented bikes and pedaled past San Antonio’s five Catholic missions. The San Antonio Mission Trail is a 13.9-mile loop that takes around four hours to complete and finishes up at The Alamo. We made the trek in the winter when the weather was chilly but comfortable. If you visit during the summer months, make sure to head out early and make plenty of water stops.
Following a much-needed nap, it was soon time for dinner. While tourists typically head to the River Walk, we opted to avoid the beautiful but crowded attraction in favor of something different. The Pearl District, which surrounds the original Pearl Brewery, features trendy shops, upscale eateries, and outdoor spaces for gathering. Our favorite stop was the Hotel Emma—a luxury boutique property housed inside a 19th-century brewhouse that features an amazing restaurant, bar, and reading room.
With our bellies full and our pockets stretched, we ended the day at one of the city’s free activities. The Saga is a stunning light show cast onto the exterior of the San Fernando Cathedral. Twice nightly, every Tuesday through Sunday night, the story of the Lone Star State is illuminated onto the oldest cathedral in San Antonio.