Roanoke: Mountain Peaks to City Streets

Words by Rebecca Deurlein and Nicole Letts
Photos by Fire Station One Boutique Hotel

The rounded peaks of the Appalachian Mountains greet planes as they touch down in Roanoke, Virginia. The beauty of the mountain city is striking, with rolling hills surrounding the city’s valley. Its bowl is filled with interactive museums, historic buildings, and al fresco activities. Once a railroad town situated directly on the Norfolk Southern tracks, Roanoke has developed into a destination for those seeking a balance of scenic splendor and urban comforts. That combination is the ideal backdrop for a few days of respite. Spend days dipping in and out of exhibits and meandering shaded trails before hitting sophisticated cocktail lounges and farm-to-table restaurants. 

Nicole’s Itinerary

Go Stargazing

The Blue Ridge Parkway winds just ten minutes from downtown Roanoke and takes you right to one of the city’s prized attractions: the Roanoke Star. 

The Star is a 10,000-pound, 88 1/2-foot neon structure. Erected in 1949, it holds the record as the world’s largest man-made star and is symbolically illuminated nightly. At its inception 75 years ago, it was envisioned as a temporary holiday decoration to cast a radiant glow over the city during the bustling Christmas season. Sponsored by the Roanoke Merchants Association, the star quickly became a beloved symbol, and despite the intention of being dismantled after that first holiday, it remained in place. What began as a fleeting seasonal display has since become a nightly tradition. 

For those, like me, who appreciate gorgeous views but could do without hiking and the accompanying sweat, you can drive right up to the base of the star to its viewing deck. A map points to the various mountains around the peak. 

As you head back to the city, route your map to Blue Cow Ice Cream Co. The creamery was founded in Roanoke in 2016 by husband-wife duo, Jason and Carolyn Kise. It has since opened several more locations across the state. Favorite flavors include Sea Salt Brickle with Caramel Swirl and Birthday Cake, and seasonal flavors keep regulars coming back for something new. During my visit, I couldn’t get enough of the tangy and refreshing goat cheese with blueberry swirl. 

Awaken Your Inner Child

I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Roanoke is quite walkable, especially from our home base at the boutique hotel, Fire Station One. There are ample museums to roam, such as the Taubman Museum of Art (open on weekends), and the Virginia Museum of Transportation. Kids will enjoy the interactive opportunities to climb aboard trains and planes while adults will delight in the historical context. I especially liked the display of Norfolk Southern china and flatware, and I spent much of my time reading every word in the Cotton to Silk exhibit about African Americans’ contributions to the railroad. Walk among old-time locomotives and buses while modern-day trains chug along the track behind the museum, and check out the enormous model train display. 

After getting my fill of history, I took a quick walk back toward the hotel to Center In The Square, a nonprofit collective of museums all within one building. Stop at the information desk in the lobby to get tickets to each gallery, or head to the individual entrances to acquire admission. Make your first stop at the Harrison Museum of African American Culture. Here, learn about Roanoke’s Black history—including Henrietta Lacks, whose cancer cells are the source of one of the most commonly used cell lines in scientific research, as well as the Hunton Life Saving and First Aid Crew, the country’s first African American rescue crew. 

Next, encounter a different and more interactive part of history at the Pinball Museum and the Starcade museum. Rows of antique and vintage pinball machines, all set to free play, await. The rules here are simple: Play as much as you want for as long as you want—just make sure to finish each game to prevent any stuck balls. You’ll be surprised how quickly those lost trigger finger skills come back to you. From the Pinball Museum, hit the Starcade to play arcade games and nearly any video game you can imagine. I spent time jamming to Guitar Hero and racing the clock to save Princess Peach on Mario Bros. Of course, I also couldn’t pass up an opportunity to claim an air hockey victory over Rebecca. 

Shop Small and Salvage Big 

As always, one of my preferred travel activities is checking out local shops to get some insight into a town’s personality. If the Pinball Museum was any indication, Roanoke has a creative spirit and a quirky vibe that resonates in its boutiques. Chocolatepaper is an aptly named shop supplied with cards, books, wine, gifts, and of course—chocolate. The scent is intoxicating and inviting. Nearby at 310 Rosemont, find men’s and women’s classic pieces with on-trend appeal. Francophiles will especially enjoy the French Market, and you absolutely cannot miss the TXTUR showroom within Fire Station One, where high-quality handmade furniture and other small goods are thoughtfully displayed. 

The area's biggest draw, however, is Black Dog Salvage. Owned by pickers Robert Kulp and Mike Whiteside, the 40,000-square-foot building in Grandin Village is a treasure trove of reclaimed materials, antiques, art, and more. The warehouse showcases items found in the world’s most interesting places. There are ship propellers, governor’s mansion doors, and even Egyptian gates from Cairo. If you can dream it, the Black Dog Salvage team can create it. Stroll the spacious property to see what you can dig up yourself, so you can take home the ultimate souvenir. 

Rebecca’s Itinerary

Hike McAfee Knob

If you can’t hike the entire Appalachian Trail, why not hike a segment of it? Roanoke’s McAfee Knob trail is a doozy, as much for its climb as its dizzying views, and it’s only 15 miles from downtown Roanoke. Start at the trailhead on VA-311, and huff and puff your way up a couple of challenging switchbacks that will get your heart pumping. The path levels off and alternates between moderate and strenuous in difficulty. You’ll hike four miles to the top through a shady forest, dappled sunlight lighting your way and the only sound the skitter of critters and the songs of cicadas. Rock scrambles and a steady climb bring you to the final mile, and just when you think you can’t take another step, you’ll see a small sign pointing to the overlook. It’s through some brush and trees, then you’ll emerge on a rock face whose chin juts out over the valley, with panoramic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and, far below, farmhouses dotting a pastoral rolling landscape. Take a seat right there on the edge, let the mountain breeze cool your jets, and just take it all in. This is a good place to enjoy some water, a packed lunch, or a snack—it’s another four miles back to your car, and you’ll need to find your second wind for peak (see what I did there?) performance.

Kayak Carvins Cove

I’ve always found beauty in a lake surrounded by mountains, and Carvins Cove Natural Reserve, just 10 miles from downtown Roanoke, is an especially tranquil respite with views for miles. Within minutes of checking in at the lot—there’s a parking fee and a small hourly fee to rent kayaks—you’ll be pushing your bright yellow-orange kayak into the water, settling into your one- or two-person seat, and paddling your way along the shore. The current here is perfect for a good workout. I suggest paddling upstream to the dam and the small island where water birds squawk in the trees and prance along the shore. You can pull up and rest here or turn back and explore the inlets that dot the shoreline. Since Carvins Cove is a reservoir that converts rainfall into drinking water, you can’t swim here. But if you want to make a day of it, you can pull your kayak on shore and explore any of the 60 miles of trails. Only small motorboats are allowed here, and in my morning on the lake, only one trolled past. Making my way back downstream, the only sound was the splash of my paddles. It’s the perfect way to bring some zen to your day.  

Pull up a Stool at Brady’s Distillery 

Nicole and I love to enjoy a tipple before dinner, and Brady’s Distillery proved to be the perfect place to sample some local spirits. The tasting room opened in 2022 and offers vodka and gin made onsite, rum from the U.S. Virgin Islands blended with Brady’s distilled rum, and whiskey and bourbon sourced elsewhere, then proofed with Carvins Cove water and aged and bottled at Brady’s. The best way to sample is via the enticing cocktail menu—I started with a gin gimlet. My informative mixologist explained that the gin’s flavor is derived from a Prohibition-style process. It’s distilled first, then “steeped” with spices, giving it a slight coloration and a fantastically unique taste. Cocktails here are a combination of flavor and artistry, bringing out the best qualities of the base liquor. Be sure to sit at the bar so you can watch as your mixologist smokes your old fashioned or toasts banana slices rolled in brown sugar to garnish your espresso martini.

Stay – You might not be able to slide down a fireman’s pole, but don’t let that stop you from hanging your hat at Fire Station One, a national landmark and the first fire station in Roanoke. In operation for 100 years, it was recently converted into a multiuse building. Downstairs is a custom furniture and décor showroom alongside a cozy bistro and bar. Upstairs you’ll find seven guest suites outfitted in luxe bedding and furniture that softens the industrial firehouse feel. Modern amenities are a delight—no one tires of automatic blinds—and a large common area offers complimentary snacks and drinks. You’ll be wowed by the restoration, including original treaded flooring from the days of horse-drawn fire engines, wall divots from salt licks, and spiral staircases to keep curious horses on the bottom floor. 

Savor – Stellar service, creative dishes, and a tapas-style menu that tempts you to order just about everything, are the hallmarks of Bloom Restaurant & Wine Bar, where we delighted in our favorite meal in Roanoke. This casual fine dining experience is an intimate one, with only 20 tables, an open kitchen that stretches the length of the room, and a menu that changes based on whatever is locally sourced that day. We ordered three small plates and asked the chef to deliver three of his favorites, a decision that brought zero regrets. 

Sip – A tiny bar with an inconspicuous nameplate is your first look at Stellina, a name that means Little Star in Italian. And it is. From the iconic Burt Reynolds Playgirl photo tucked amid bar bottles to the pointillism wallpaper where you’re challenged to find the hidden Andy Warhol, this gem doesn’t take itself too seriously. But the handcrafted cocktails are seriously good. Tell the bartender your go-to liquor and she’ll whip up a creative—and delicious—concoction on the spot.