An unexpected and bountiful autumn escape 

Words by: Rebecca Deurlein and Nicole Letts

“There's some kind of deep magic here,” says Kitty Hawk, North Carolina resident Kim Meacham. As we chat over homemade blueberry muffins and sip green tea out of mason jars, Meacham, the small business owner behind Milk Street Soap Co., continues to wax poetic about the Outer Banks. “We live close to the edge in this part of the world—the fringe of harm and safety; we are constantly reminded of wildlife and Earth cycles.” 

The shorelines in the Outer Banks are known for their dichotomous personality. On one hand, the destination stretches 200 miles north to south with 70 of those miles devoted to the pristine banks of Cape Hatteras National Seashore. Here, fierce winds move dunes and encourage surfer-approved waves. Beachcombers claim the shelling is bar none. Alternatively, these waters are also home to an estimated 3,000 shipwrecks, several with tales featuring characters such as Edward Teach, better known as the infamous pirate Blackbeard. The polarity is intriguing, and it draws in people and Mother Nature alike.

A confluence of different waters, where the warm Gulf Stream meets the cool Labrador Current, creates an ecosystem with widespread impact.  Three hundred species of birds fly through the skies. Wild horses gallop across sand. Countless oysters, dolphins, crabs, sea turtles, and whales make their home here. The Outer Banks is a bountiful cornucopia. 

“When I leave this place, I am filled with anxiety,” says seventh-generation Outer Banks resident and Dare County commissioner Ervin Bateman. “But when my car crosses back over the bridge, and the marsh grass hits my nose, I instantly relax.” You too can find your version of zen, whether through adventure or respite, in the Outer Banks.

Nicole’s Itinerary 

Have a Shucking Good Time

Briny bivalves are among the most esteemed oceanic treasures along the North Carolina coast. Just one tiny critter pumps and filters 50 gallons of water through its shells each day. For the ecosystem, that means clean water for neighboring fish and wildlife, but for foodies, that means deliciously salty snacks. Meet Sticky Bottom Oyster Company partners Todd Ballance and Ricky Jones at the Snack Shack in Hatteras Village to experience the oyster harvesting process from start to finish. The tour begins dockside as the duo explain everything from oyster seed growth to cage types and sizing. Then, jump in the boat to head approximately two miles offshore to the Sticky Bottom oyster farm in the Pamlico Sound. Take in the surrounding waterscape spotting wildlife along the way. Once at the farm, the oystermen will demonstrate how oysters are grown and cared for, teaching participants about other oyster-adjacent organisms that surround cages, such as barnacles, shrimp, and crab. Back at the dock, learn how to shuck the salty triploid Henry oysters before slurping them down raw.

Take to the Water and Land

When in the Outer Banks, there’s no denying the splendor of the surroundings. Get up close and personal with an ecological tour on an airboat helmed by captain Jamie Moore. The nimble craft skims the sea as it bounds over deep and shallow water alike. Throughout the two-hour journey, Moore rolls up his pants and hops into the water, sharing facts about oceanic critters and creatures and pushing horseshoe crabs and marsh periwinkle snails toward your hands for further inspection. Enjoy zipping through wetlands and a few airboat water doughnuts too. Later, plan to spend your evening with Manteo’s retired Police Chief Francis D’Ambra for his historic walking tour through the circa 1865 town. Stops along the way include the 1889 bank-turned-olive oil shop as well as the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse, a replica of the former lighthouse of the same name. The tour is peppered with trivia about Manteo and some of its famous residents, including Andy Griffith, who lived on a 70-acre estate nearby.  

Treat Yourself 

For me, no trip is complete without popping in and out of local shops and galleries; it’s my favorite way to become immersed in the local culture and get to know area businesses. As such, a stop at Buxton Village Books, a charming private home turned 40-year-old indie bookstore, is a must. The shop offers a variety of genres, but keep your eyes peeled for reads by local authors or about area lore. Lee Robinson General Store in nearby Hatteras has basic groceries and dry goods as well as fine wines, tchotchkes, and souvenirs. While here, pick up a package of Hatteras Saltworks sea salt, which is harvested directly from the Atlantic by husband-wife duo Brian and Shaena McMahon. The area’s high mineral content and high salinity seawater produces a flavorful seasoning that is then solar evaporated and packaged on the island. Shop for local art at KDH Cooperative Gallery and Studios in Kill Devil Hills, where works by 40 juried members in a variety of media are available. In Manteo, Bluegrass Island Trading Company stocks gourmet foods and coastal gifts, and even houses a small general store museum. 

Rebecca’s Itinerary

Fly Like the Wright Brothers

When in the Outer Banks, respect must be paid to Wilbur and Orville Wright, who designed and piloted the first plane right here in Kitty Hawk in 1903. In their honor, I crawled into the cockpit of a cherry red WACO biplane at OBX Airplanes and took to the skies. The open air—and open side!—was exhilarating, but what topped it were the stunning sights to behold from 1,000 feet up. My pilot banked to the left and right, giving me unrivaled views of the paint swirls of turquoise and aqua on the palate of the sea. Gazing down into the clear water, I spotted pods of 10 or more dolphins; a solo, slowly moving shark; and ghostly shipwrecks, plentiful here in the Graveyard of the Atlantic. We flew—fittingly—over the Wright Brothers National Memorial, the Bodie Island Lighthouse, the swell of sand that forms the hang glider’s paradise of Jockey’s Ridge, and the new Marc Basnight Bridge that curves its way through the inlet. It was 40 minutes of thrills and delight, and it gave me a glimpse of what the Wright Brothers must have felt. 

Ride the Beach on Horseback

If you’re a horse girl or guy who feels massive jealousy when you see riders on the beach, OBX gives you the chance to put away your FOMO. Outer Banks beaches are so long, so extensive, and so plentiful, that it’s possible to find a stretch you can have all to yourself. Equine Adventures in Frisco owns a chunk of property near the beach, and their beautiful, properly tended horses are just itching to take you there. The team matches you to a horse fitting your ability, and off you go into a magical forest. You’ll see deer and a variety of birdlife, navigate waterways, wind your way around trees, and emerge on the beach, the sound of the ocean beckoning to you. Depending on your level of experience, you can trot or canter down the beach, kicking up sand and smiling until your face hurts. Then you’ll walk along the surf and thank your lucky stars that you experienced the beach on horseback—for many of us, a dream come true. 

Indulge in the Soft-Shell Crab Harvest

Every May and September, blue crabs molt, meaning they shed their hard shells to grow a new outer layer. You’ll notice restaurants in the Outer Banks featuring soft-shell crab on their menus and people lining up to devour them. But have you ever wondered what a soft-shell crab is, or how it’s plucked from the sea at exactly the right time? I visited Endurance Seafood just outside of Manteo, where co-owner Christina “Kissy” Bridges welcomes visitors behind the scenes and explains how crabs are harvested. First, a male crab is centered in a submerged cage, and before long, his urine draws females. Once the cage is full, the crabs are brought to shore, where they enter shallow tanks with recirculating water that mimics ocean conditions. Every four hours, day and night, workers check the crabs for molting. I got to see a few and it was captivating to watch the shell slowly peel away from each crab. At that point, the new “peeler” crabs are soft as a baby’s bottom, so they are delivered to local restaurants or boxed and shipped overnight to buyers. I took some crabs with me, learned how to prep them, and ate them for dinner—a true delicacy. The folks at Sugar Creek Seafood Restaurant will do this for you—just bring in your catch and they’ll prepare them the way you like. 

Where to Stay, Eat, & Drink

The Inn on Pamlico Sound – In Buxton on Hatteras Island, this sunny yellow inn greets you with cozy rooms, a creaky wood floor, fresh-baked cookies, and steaming hot coffee. The best meal we had in the Outer Banks was at the inn’s onsite fine dining restaurant. Be sure to make advanced reservations at Café Pamlico, where you can dine on filet mignon or fresh catch, sit seaside, and watch an incredible sunset. 

Lucky 12 Tavern – Owner Mark Ballog is responsible for OBX Soft-Shell Crab Week and is a host of other Nags Head events. The crab is cooked perfectly and melts in your mouth, and the cocktails and service might bring you back a second time.

Orange Blossom Bakery & Café – Sure, you can get your protein breakfast here in the form of a breakfast sandwich, but don’t leave without sampling their famous Apple Uglies. You’ll need two hands to hold this dense and fruit-filled twist on the apple fritter. Or opt for the luscious cinnamon rolls or fried pies. 

The Tranquil House Inn – If it’s good enough for Richard Gere and Diane Lane, who stayed here while filming Nights in Rodanthe, it’s good enough for us! A lovely inn with views of a marina on one side and the historic town of Manteo on the other, it puts you smack-dab in the middle of shops and restaurants and central to all there is to do in this part of the Outer Banks. The inn’s 1587 Restaurant & Lounge is a lively gathering place where you can have a drink or enjoy a delicious dinner just steps away from your room. 

Kill Devil Rum – The only craft rum distillery in the Outer Banks produces such good rum, you’ll want to take a few bottles of the silver, pecan honey, spiced, or aged rum home with you. Sample a flight, then choose from the ever-changing cocktail menu and rum slushies.