The Ultimate Western North Carolina Road Trip
Words by Marianne Leek
Most people think the state of North Carolina ends at Asheville. However, nestled in the far westernmost corner of the state are some of the most picturesque mountain towns in the Southeast. It’s where the Blue Ridge meets the Smokies and where Indigenous, Appalachian, and Southern cultures are shared and celebrated. You’ll find five star farm to table restaurants, miles of hiking trails, pristine lakes and streams, live music, art galleries, museums, parks and byways, all within a two hour drive from Asheville, Chattanooga, or Atlanta. Grab your girls for the weekend or plan an epic family road trip, and let’s head to the mountains!
Bryson City
With its charming Main Street, family owned eateries, and local hospitality, Bryson City is the perfect base camp for those looking to spend time outdoors. With approximately 40 percent of Great Smoky Mountains National Park located in Swain County, North Carolina, Bryson City and nearby Cherokee are ideal for park exploration without the crowds of the Pigeon Forge/Gatlinburg, Tennessee, area. Whether you go tubing on Deep Creek, kayaking on Fontana Lake, whitewater rafting down the Nantahala River, bait your hook at Cooper Creek Trout Pond, or explore “The Road to Nowhere,” there’s plenty to keep the entire family active and happy. No equipment? No problem. While Bryson City Outdoors has a wide selection of outdoor equipment and apparel, it’s also well trafficked by locals. Family and dog friendly, you can purchase a T-shirt; rent a kayak, paddleboard, or mountain bike; try a local craft beer from their taproom; or grab a burger from food trucks parked out front daily. While you’re in town, take a ride on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad, the perfect way to see the Smoky Mountains and the surrounding area with round-trip passenger options as well as the ever-popular “Polar Express” seasonal excursion. Other places to eat, sip, stay, and play: Mountain Layers Brewing Company, Bryson City Bakery, Darnell Farms, Deep Creek Winery, High Test Deli, La Dolce Vita Bakery, Madisons on Main, Pasqualino’s Italian Restaurant, The Bistro, The Everett Hotel, The Lodge Nantahala River, and the Nantahala Outdoor Center.
Cherokee
The Qualla Boundary of the Eastern Band of the Cherokee consists of over 56,000 acres and spans five western North Carolina counties, and the town of Cherokee is a cultural and historical gem. Visitors should anchor their trip at the Museum of the Cherokee People located in the heart of downtown. Established in 1948, it remains one of the oldest tribal museums in the country. While the museum is currently in the early stages of a multi-year renovation, you can still immerse yourself in exclusive exhibitions, curated collections, and educational programs that detail the complicated history, vibrant culture, and unique stories of the Cherokee people. There are also regular live art and craft demonstrations and events by community and tribal members, and a comprehensive museum store with local books, crafts, and art. Just up the road you’ll find the Oconaluftee Indian Village, an open air “living history museum” where guests can step back in time and learn about what life was like for the Cherokee in the mountains of North Carolina during the 18th century. If you’re visiting during the summer months, be sure to take in the acclaimed tribal drama “Unto These Hills” at the outdoor Mountainside Theatre.
The Oconaluftee Visitor Center serves as one of the main gateways to Great Smoky Mountains National Park and includes the Mountain Farm Museum, which is located just behind the visitor center. A self-guided walking tour provides insight into 19th century family life and agricultural practices and features log structures, including a farmhouse and barn relocated from their original locations inside the park. Regardless of the time of year, if you want to view the herds of elk that roam the area, you need to plan to hit the road early. It’s stunning as the morning sun breaks through the lingering fog and elk graze in the pasture adjacent to the visitor center. Mingus Mill is located just a short distance from the entrance, and Newfound Gap Road is a feast for the eyes any time of year, but especially in the summer and fall. While you can easily spend several days in the park, some of the highlights including Clingmans Dome, Elkmont Ghost Town, and Cades Cove Loop, can all easily be done in a day. For those who want to explore “America’s Favorite Drive,” you can access the Southernmost terminus of the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway from Cherokee. Hike to Mingo Falls, ride mountain bikes at Fire Mountain Trails, catch a show at Harrah’s Cherokee Casino Resort, grab a pint at Native American Brewing, and don’t leave without trying a tasty treat from the Sassy Sunflowers Bakery & Cafe food truck that can frequently be found at the Cherokee location of Bryson City Outdoors, which has beautiful views of the Oconaluftee River and is just across from the Museum of the Cherokee People.
Robbinsville
The Historic Tapoco Lodge is located in the small town of Robbinsville along the banks of the Cheoah River. Established in 1930, this impressive lodge sits on 120 acres. Sweeping porches, cozy firepits, well-appointed rooms, and premiere dining make this a favorite among travelers and locals alike. The Cheoah Dining Room offers an elevated farm to table dining experience, while the “locally inspired” Tapoco Tavern has outdoor seating along the river and is the quintessential place to unwind after tubing with the kids on Lake Santeetlah or hiking in Joyce Kilmer Forest. Thrill seekers should check out the Tail of the Dragon, a scenic 11-mile mountain stretch with over 300 curves, wildly popular among bikers but definitely not for the faint of heart. The Cherohala Skyway is another scenic byway that covers 43 miles while snaking its way through two national forests, connecting Robbinsville with Tellico Plains, Tennessee, and is well-loved for its mountain vistas.
Hayesville
Quaint and bucolic, the heart of Hayesville is its town square that centers around The Beal Center, a beautifully restored historic courthouse that now functions as an events venue. With exceptional dining options, a vibrant community theater and performing arts center, craft breweries and vineyards, local galleries and live music, this tiny town packs a punch. The town is conveniently located near the Fires Creek Recreational Area as well as Lake Chatuge and the Chatuge Dam Recreation Area. This pristine lake straddles North Carolina and North Georgia, making it a popular vacation destination. Widely recognized as one of the finest dining experiences in the region and named one of the 100 Best Restaurants in America by OpenTable, The Copper Door offers an à la carte menu of steak, seafood, Louisiana favorites, craft cocktails, and an extensive wine list, in addition to seasonal wine pairing dinners. Nocturnal Brewing Company, also located on the town square, has in-house craft beer options as well as tasty burgers and pizza. Be sure to stop by Tiger’s Store and Chinquapin’s Ice Cream and Soda Bar. The two stores are connected, and the eclectic Tiger’s Store has been in the Tiger family for five generations, making it a local favorite. In addition to hand-spun milkshakes that make it a popular after-school hangout, it has an impressive selection of Appalachian literature, cookbooks, and children’s books in the gift section, as well as apparel appropriate for everything from church to hiking the Appalachian Trail. Local musician Rob Tiger not only runs Tiger’s with his wife Holly and daughter Lauren, he organizes the esteemed Songwriter’s Showcase that takes place at the Peacock Performing Arts Center April through November. The Peacock is also home to an established community theater with a number of performances throughout the year. John C. Campbell Folk School in nearby Brasstown is an artistic and cultural treasure, with over 800 weekend and week-long classes annually, as well as the highly anticipated annual fall festival. Other spots not to miss: Hayesville Brew, East Fork Cellars, Shooting Creek Vines, Epic Catering and Eatery, JackRabbit Mountain Bike and Hiking Trails, Old Jail Museum, and the Cherokee Homestead Exhibit.
Highlands-Cashiers
With the distinction of being one of the highest small towns east of the Rockies, the Highlands-Cashiers plateau is a tiny mountain community in a league of its own when it comes to premiere dining, lodging, and the arts. To describe the area as “picturesque” doesn’t begin to do it justice; on the drive up the mountain you’ll pass two stunning roadside waterfalls—Dry Falls and Bridal Veil Falls. Whether you stay at Old Edwards Inn and Spa, Half-Mile Farm, 200 Main, The Outpost Inn, Skyline Lodge, Hotel Cashiers, or the High Hampton Resort, lodging is next level. If you’re a music fan, consider booking a stay at Highlander Mountain House that features the onsite farm to table restaurant The Ruffed Grouse Tavern and curates the Highlander Mountain House Salon Series, an intimate listening room experience regularly featuring some of the most talented musicians in the region. Highlands is also home to two nationally recognized festivals, Highlands Food & Wine that takes place each fall and its sister festival Bear Shadow that happens in spring. Take a guided fly-fishing trip with the experts at Brookings Anglers, sample wine from all over the world at High Country Wine and Provisions, do some shopping on Main Street, take a class or peruse an exhibit at The Bascom: A Center for the Visual Arts, or hike the trails of Whiteside Mountain. The Highlands-Cashiers plateau is one of the dreamiest mountain destinations in the South.
Other points of interest along the way: The beloved seasonal walk-up ice cream shop Sweet Tooth, located in Murphy, is an adorable nod to days gone by, and their sundaes are to die for. If you’re looking for gourmet coffee and homemade donuts, Rare Bird Emporium has coffee, donuts, antiques, and unique gifts all in one place just down the street from the Sweet Tooth. Fields of the Wood, a “biblical outdoor theme park is located on more than 200 acres of land in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains.” About an hour down the road, you’ll find the college town of Sylva, home to Western Carolina University. The original Jackson County courthouse now serves as their gorgeous community library, and City Lights Bookstore and Cafe is a town treasure where you can find signed books from local authors such as Ron Rash, David Joy, and Annette Saunooke Clapsaddle. Innovation Brewing has cold beer on tap with inviting outdoor space. Wayah Bald, Albert Mountain Fire Tower, and Pickens Nose are easy, family friendly hikes with tremendous views in nearby Franklin and are the perfect places for a quick picnic and photo opportunity.