Where to drop your anchor, soak up indigo-dyed history, and raise a glass to the next generation in Georgetown, South Carolina
Words by Colleen McNally Arnett
Photos by Andrew Cebulka, Molly Rose Photography
A sailboat’s navy burgee with white block letters reads, “ENDLESS SUMMER.” The flag sways in the gentle fall breeze, which brings a distinctly coastal scent of pluff mud in the air, mixed with the nearby paper mill.
Perched from their suite balconies at The George in Georgetown, South Carolina, guests can overlook the Harborwalk Marina and marvel at all the late-afternoon happenings on the dock. A golden retriever runs aboard a schooner. The golden-hour light sparkles over the dark sea. The entire scene is a study in the beauty of contrasts—white and blue, laid-back luxury, maritime traditions, and unexpected surprises.
The 4 p.m. check-in time coincides with high tide and happy hour, when visitors and locals alike arrive by boat, whether to stay overnight or to simply enjoy the sunset at Eliza’s, the hotel’s dockside watering hole. The place will soon be packed for the annual Georgetown Wooden Boat Show, held every October.
While the circa-2024 bar glistens with chic marble countertops, preppy striped stools, and a green grassy courtyard, the story behind it traces back a long way. Eliza is short for Elizabeth Lucas Pinckney, the first woman inducted into the South Carolina Business Hall of Fame. In the 1700s, she defied social expectations as a woman managing a farm and is often credited for growing indigo into a major cash crop.
On the cocktail list at Eliza’s are more nods to local legends, like the Francis Marion—a zero-proof homage to the Revolutionary War leader—or the Grey Man—a riff on a Cape Codder, named for the ghostly figure rumored to appear to residents before hurricanes as a warning.
Considering Georgetown was established as an official port of entry in the 18th century, it’s hard not to see some ghosts in a town older than America itself. Located in South Carolina between Charleston and Myrtle Beach, the petite port of call is known for its quaint streets lined with centuries-old live oaks. Although less than 7 square miles in land area, Georgetown is home to seven different museums honoring the region’s deep ties to indigo, rice, and Gullah culture created by the enslaved Africans who were brought to the South Carolina Sea Islands in colonial times and who made the agricultural success possible.
Amid the antiquity, however, there is also a fresh wave of talent rising on Georgetown’s waterfront. The first new hotel in nearly 50 years, The George, was developed by Joe Keenan of Charleston-based Winyah Hospitality in collaboration with Steve Palmer’s The Indigo Road Hospitality Group. To bring the vision to life, Palmer and company tapped Keenan’s wife, the talented interior designer Jenny Keenan, known for her work up and down the East Coast.
Considering Georgetown was established as an official port of entry in the 18th century, it’s hard not to see some ghosts in a town older than America itself.
As soon as guests enter the lobby, they are transported to a whimsical, rattan-wrapped wonderland, complete with welcome cocktails. An arched entryway, wrapped in lush botanical wallpaper, is akin to a Lowcountry version of Alice falling down the rabbit hole; instead of tea parties, the Mad Hatter, and the Cheshire Cat, expect blue herons, paintings of swimming mermaids, and plates of ice-cold oysters on the half shell.
Indeed, a stay at The George can be a destination within itself; it’s tempting to drop an anchor, stay put, and relax. From the fresh catch and inventive menu to the timeless ambience, the on-site pier-to-plate restaurant, The Independent, is tough to top. The hotel also hosts a well-curated calendar of events, such as guided walks through Georgetown and indigo-dying workshops with artist Caroline Harper of CHI Design Indigo. Every Saturday at 2:30 p.m., weather permitting, a captain helms a scenic ride on a pontoon boat, crossing Winyah Bay for a private tour of Hobcaw Barony, a 16,000-acre research reserve. The land was originally home to several known Native American tribes (the Sampit, Pee Dee, Winyah, and Waccamaw) before it held a rice plantation and, later, a hunting retreat for famed financier and foreign policy adviser Bernard Baruch.
And for those who are curious to venture beyond the hotel’s offerings, they don’t have to go far. Just a few steps away along Front Street, what’s old and what’s new continue to mix and mingle.
Take Frank’s on Front, for instance. Owned by husband-and-wife team Sam Elmer and Leldon McClary Elmer, this contemporary coastal restaurant represents Georgetown’s next generation. Leldon’s parents own Frank’s restaurant, a local mainstay in nearby Pawleys Island, and taught her the ropes. Other Georgetown businesses, such as Indigo Bakery and provisions shop Indigo Mercantile, celebrate the town’s colorful history with souvenirs in many shades of blue. And a few blocks farther, Winyah Bay Brewing Company also opened in 2024, becoming Georgetown’s first craft brewer.
If rising tides lift all ships, then all signs point to smooth sailing ahead for this burgeoning destination.
