Words by Marianne Leek
Photos by Glamping Collective, David Rinella
On Sept. 27, 2024, Hurricane Helene ripped through western North Carolina, forever changing the landscape and the people who live there. In the days, weeks, and months following this unprecedented natural disaster, the community of Asheville, North Carolina, and the surrounding region came together to support one another, share resources, and rebuild. The resilience of western North Carolina serves as a living, breathing testament to the goodness and interconnectedness of humanity. One year later, Asheville is ready to welcome visitors, and there’s no better time to thoughtfully revisit the Land of the Sky than when the mountains come alive in a kaleidoscopic display of fiery hues every fall.
Where to Stay
The Windsor Boutique Hotel has 14 luxury suites, each with a private bedroom and bath, a fully equipped kitchen, and a washer and dryer. This makes it an ideal base camp to stretch out and enjoy a lengthier getaway. While there, visit the adjacent Benjamin Walls Gallery and WALLS Wine Bar. Walls is a local environmentalist, conservationist, and award-winning nature photographer who has traveled the world to capture these stunning images. Also conveniently located downtown and within walking distance of restaurants, shops, breweries, galleries, and more is The Restoration, an upscale boutique hotel where you can borrow a book from their curated library while sipping an espresso from The Rise Coffee Bar. If burgers and craft beer are more up your alley, head downstairs to The Draftsman, a casual basement bar, complete with a bowling alley.
Opened in 2024, The Flat Iron Hotel is located in an iconic building at the intersection of Battery Park and Wall Street, seamlessly blending historic nostalgia with Art Deco-inspired whimsy. Underground in the building’s old boiler room, the on-site “modern-Appalachian meets Italian” restaurant Luminosa and cute speakeasy Red Ribbon Society underground in the building’s old boiler room are just two more reasons to visit the Flat Iron. Catch a sunset over the French Broad River from The Roof or dine at Golden Hour when you stay at The Radical, a lovely hotel located in the vibrant River Arts District.
If you prefer to stay just outside of the city, we’ve got you covered. Only 10 minutes from downtown is Firelight at Shope Creek, with eight spacious, well-appointed luxury cabins and an organic, modern vibe situated in a rural setting. Each cabin features a fireplace, a private porch, and a hot tub, making it ideal for disconnecting and resetting. Women-owned and -operated, Firelight offers communal gathering spaces and nature trails and invites guests to gather fresh eggs, greens, and vegetables from its on-site gardens. The Glamping Collective is a mountaintop retreat, located 20 minutes west of the city, with miles of trails for you to explore—or you can spend time relaxing on a private deck by the firepit or in the hot tub.
In the nearby unincorporated community of Gerton, which serves as a gateway between Asheville and the Lake Lure and Chimney Rock areas that were decimated by Hurricane Helene, Gerton Getaways are pet-friendly, spacious vacation properties perfect for families. In the two months following Hurricane Helene, Gerton Getaways donated their rentals to people in need who still didn’t have access to water. Owner Courtney Hopkins explains the uniqueness of these properties and looks forward to hosting guests this fall: “The 100-year-old Glenna Cabin is located in the Florence Nature Preserve, which means guests can go out the back door and be on trails. It is rich in history but has the modern amenities of a hotel. Our large house, the Gerton Getaway, sleeps 12 and is a huge hit because of the big game room. It’s perfect for family reunions, and it’s close to trails. All of our rentals have a hot tub, indoor fireplace, and outdoor firepit.”
Where to Sip and Savor
Known for its diverse culinary offerings and farm-to-table dining, Asheville is a paradise for foodies. One of the top food and wine destinations in the country, the city has a dynamic food scene with more than 250 independently owned restaurants and 50 breweries. Wedge Brewing Company, New Belgium Brewing Company, Highland Brewing Company, and Hi-Wire Brewing’s Tiki Easy Bar remain local favorites for grabbing a pint or cocktail.
One year later, Asheville is ready to welcome visitors, and there’s no better time to thoughtfully revisit the Land of the Sky than when the mountains come alive in a kaleidoscopic display of fiery hues every fall.
While beloved eatery Corner Kitchen has flooded twice before over its 21 years in historic Biltmore Village, the impact of Hurricane Helene in 2024 was different, destroying not only Corner Kitchen but much of this Biltmore neighborhood. For Vanessa Salomo, co-owner of Corner Kitchen and its downtown sister restaurant, Chestnut, not rebuilding was never an option because these two local restaurants are their livelihoods. Before Hurricane Helene, Corner Kitchen employed 55 staff, and while they worked to rebuild, they temporarily relocated 15 of the employees to Chestnut. Today, Salomo is excited to welcome back customers to this historic area: “Ninety-nine percent of Biltmore Village was very badly damaged by Helene. It’s been a long road, but we are strong, resilient, and excited about reopening. Please come and see us soon. We need you back!”
In the aftermath of Hurricane Helene, James Beard Award-winning chef and Asheville restaurant owner Meherwan Irani partnered with World Central Kitchen to distribute more than 30,000 meals in the region, airlifting some to the isolated areas hit hardest by the hurricane. At his restaurant, Chai Pani, Irani also shifted from a la carte menu offerings to an affordable, all-you-can-eat “Hurricane Hot Bar.” Already known for its affordability, as well as its high energy, colorful aesthetic, and casual atmosphere, Chai Pani serves up diverse flavors from India. While you can purchase signature spices at Chai Pani, check out the broader selection at their sister establishment, Spicewalla, located downtown, and prepare Indian dishes in the comfort of your kitchen. Bear’s Smokehouse BBQ also worked with World Central Kitchen after Hurricane Helene, providing free hot meals to first responders and residents in need. The official barbecue of the University of North Carolina Asheville Bulldogs, Bear’s serves up savory barbecue and local craft brews and has quickly become an area favorite. Consider dining at Neng Jr.’s, Asheville’s first Filipinx restaurant, or Good Hot Fish, a delicious, locally owned seafood restaurant. These two partnered to cook and distribute free, nutrient-dense hot meals after Hurricane Helene, prioritizing areas where resources were especially scarce after Hurricane Helene.”
Eric Scheffer, the owner of Jettie Rae’s Oyster House and Vinnie’s Neighborhood Italian, was instrumental in helping source and guide the setup of water tanks so that restaurants could reopen sooner. Scheffer wants visitors to experience all that he loves about this eclectic and special place: “Our community has done a remarkable job restoring itself, and we are ready to welcome guests to our establishments. Whether you are returning to Asheville or visiting for the first time, the unique magic, charm, and award-winning hospitality that Asheville has always been known for still exist and are better than ever. Dining in an independent restaurant ensures that the dollars spent are infused back into the local economy. It helps make sure that the people who make Asheville such an amazing city can afford to live here sustainably, and that our local farmers and purveyors are supported by the hospitality community and tourism industry. When one segment of hospitality is not supported, all segments of hospitality suffer. We all rise together.”
At the end of your evening, visit Potential New Boyfriend, Asheville’s newest listening lounge, and the perfect place to grab a nightcap. If you prefer coffee and dessert, check in with the pastry shop Old Europe or the French Broad Chocolate Lounge.
Where to Shop
From the expansive Western North Carolina Farmers Market to the famous River Arts District, Asheville offers an unparalleled, varied shopping experience. Block off time to explore charming downtown shops and continue your story at Malaprop’s Bookstore/Cafe or Battery Park Book Exchange and Champagne Bar, where bibliophiles can find signed, first editions by local and regional authors. Originally home to a Woolworth’s store through the late 1980s, Woolworth Walk is “worth the walk” as it’s been transformed to showcase the work of more than 170 local artists.
Known as “Asheville’s original mall,” the historic Grove Arcade has shopping, makers markets, dining, and lifestyle services housed under one roof. If you need a break from shopping, stop by Wake Foot Sanctuary and indulge in a luxury foot soak and massage. In the mood for a full-body massage? Make an appointment at the exceptional Urban Exhale Massage Spa.
Nostalgia meets high fashion at Asheville Vintage Market, Honeypot Vintage, and Posies for Lulu Vintage, where you can find everything from rare band tees to 1970s denim. Both Hazel Twenty and Lex Twenty are located in the same storefront, each featuring a broad selection of affordable and higher-end clothing and accessories for women, men, and kids. After Hurricane Helene, Hazel Twenty owner Lexi DiYeso decided to help her community in the best way she could by temporarily turning Hazel Twenty into a clothing donation site. Using her boutique’s social media accounts to locate families and communities in western North Carolina and eastern Tennessee, she also put together care packages for families in need and thoughtfully curated them for the ages and genders within each family.
“We are proud to be a small part of the fabric that makes our community so beautiful,” DiYeso says. “We do not know what the future holds for us as a small business trying to recover from this devastating hurricane, but we are committed to being an integral part of the recovery.”
Nestled in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville is home to a thriving art, music, culinary, and beverage scene and a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts. With the nearby Blue Ridge Parkway, the North Carolina Arboretum, the Asheville Botanical Garden, and miles of trails at the Biltmore Estate, Asheville has something for everyone.
The resilience of western North Carolina serves as a living, breathing testament to the goodness and interconnectedness of humanity.
Editor’s Field Notes:
Book the trip. Nearly a year after the floodwaters surged through its creative corridors, Asheville is rebuilding with the kind of quiet determination only Appalachia can muster. Go to revisit your favorite corners of the Land of the Sky. Go to find new ones. Just go. Walk. Linger. Talk to shopkeepers. Eat the meals. Tip the servers. Buy the print, the mug, the postcard. Help stitch Asheville’s vibrant fabric back together, one GOOD trip at a time.
A Few New GOOD Asheville Favorites:
Rowan Coffee has expanded to West Asheville with a space so good you might question your loyalty to the downtown original. The Center for Craft continues honoring Southern makers with exhibitions and programs that blend preservation with innovation. ButterPunk — Beth Kellerhals’ long-awaited biscuit haven that she opened with friend and fellow pastry chef, Dana Amromin — is baking comfort into every flaky layer. Print House rises where floodwaters once stood, welcoming artists of every level into its vibrant, communal studio. And Haunt offers a masterclass in Appalachian homesteading, thanks to Anneliesse Gormley’s eye for beautifully made, beautifully useful things.
