Words by Eric J. Wallace
It’s no secret that the South is home to some of the planet’s most scenic rivers. Tens of thousands of miles of pristine waterways flow from the mountains to the sea, offering a near-endless variety of bucket-list-worthy canoe and kayak adventures.
While paddle-junkies covet backwoods streams and middle-of-nowhere whitewater passages, it’s hard to beat a float centered around a great town and a gorgeous span of river. Here, I draw on my experience to share seven of my favorite trips that pair plug-and-play ease with stellar après paddle amenities.
HARPERS FERRY, WEST VIRGINIA
The famed Appalachian Trail town dates to 1733 and is carved into a terraced stone hillside studded with historic homes, restaurants, and boutique shops that overlook the cliff-backed confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers.
The Float:
Harpers Ferry Adventure Center sits on the Virginia side of the Potomac and services a fleet of family-friendly float trips that include a breezy westward paddle into town through an undeveloped corridor lined by the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park and 2,000-plus-foot peaks in the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Eat / Drink / Stay:
Enjoy vino-paired tapas in a woody, 1900s general store-turned-wine bar at Snallygaster’s Café. Follow with a short drive to a decadent prix-fixe dinner at Foraged. at Patowmack Farm, where James Beard Foundation Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic award semifinalist Chris Amendola dishes up hyperlocal and seasonal dishes in a mountaintop glass dining room.
Overnight downtown in an 1839 vernacular stone manor at Stonehouse Bed & Breakfast. Its five suites boast private balconies, luxe bathrooms, and architectural touches such as original fireplaces and restored hardwood floors.
TAPPAHANNOCK, VIRGINIA
The 2,200-person town spans the western bank of the mile-wide Rappahannock River and was once a booming Colonial port. Tidal creeks and tributaries that wind through magical and mazelike swamps make for extraordinary paddling in and around town.
The Float:
Rappahannock Adventures leads guided trips down fairy-tale-esque Piscataway Creek, which meanders through dense coastal riparian forests and navigable stands of mature bald cypress trees in Youngs Swamp.
Eat / Drink / Stay:
The Essex Inn, a Greek Revival-style mansion built in 1851, holds storied local antiques and a dozen rooms that blend modern luxuries with period elegance. Walk three blocks to NN Burger for relaxed local vibes and a robust selection of craft beer and cider. Follow with regionally sourced cocktails and fine dining in a tastefully restored 300-year-old building at 1710 Tavern.
BRYSON CITY, NORTH CAROLINA
This hip and funky mountain community straddles the scenic Tuckasegee River about 13 miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway’s southern terminus. Downtown unfolds across a picturesque valley between peaks in the Nantahala National Forest and Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
The Float:
The Nantahala Outdoor Center curates self-guided rafting and inflatable kayaking trips on its namesake river. The flagship float winds through isolated mountain forests and steep, cliffy rhododendron groves, bringing a hit parade of fun but super safe ripples and rapids.
Eat / Drink / Stay:
The Everett Hotel occupies a regally restored, three-story brick bank built in 1908. The boutique holds 10 lavishly outfitted suites and a rooftop bar. Its street-level bistro pairs upscale farm-to-table eats with a Western frontier-meets-1920s speakeasy feel. Stroll to Bryson City Brewing for beers in an overhauled historic bottling plant with an outdoor terrace.
KNOXVILLE, TENNESSEE
The 200,000-person enclave nestles into the western Great Smoky Mountains and sprawls across a valley carved by the confluence of three major rivers. It’s known for its vibrant music, outdoor, and food scenes, as well as for its famed Knoxville Wilderness—a string of forested municipal parks with more than 60 miles of multi-use trails.
The Float:
River Sports Outfitters lets visitors explore locally beloved paddling adventures, such as a signature outing that begins at Holston River Park and carries you down a nifty mile-long island inlet to the Tennessee River and the protected shores of the Forks of the River Wildlife Management Area.
Eat / Drink / Stay:
The 28-room boutique Oliver Hotel is housed in a 1876 brick Victorian, with chic and quirky midcentury-style lounges and spacious rooms featuring amenities like wet bars and subway-tile baths. Its Victorian-themed Peter Kern Library cocktail bar feels plucked from the mind of Oscar Wilde. Walk a block to J.C. Holdway, where the multicourse tasting experiences of James Beard Foundation Best Chef: Southeast award winner Joseph Lenn blend Southern staples with international flavors.
GREENVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA
The mountain region gateway is renowned for its over-the-top blend of metropolitan and outdoor culture. A flood of James Beard Foundation-recognized restaurants and watering holes is complemented by robust infrastructure and resources for activities such as hiking, cycling, mountain biking, and kayaking.
The Float:
The 120-mile Upper Saluda River Blueway flows through rural hills on the western outskirts of town. The float from the dam at Saluda Lake to the bankside Saluda Outdoor Center rolls through a densely wooded corridor that’s around 120 feet wide and features loads of smooth boulders, fun riffles, and small rock shelves.
Eat / Drink / Stay:
With soaring wood-paneled ceilings, stone archways, and a massive rock fireplace, the Grand Bohemian Lodge feels like an authentic Old World mountain château. Rooms are equipped with luxurious mattresses, opulent tile showers, and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking lovely Reedy River Park.
Belly up to Spirit & Bower’s marble bar for divine small plates and fine wines, whiskeys, or bourbons in a cigar-style lounge. Head to Scoundrel on Main Street, where chef Joe Cash’s New American take on French fine dining landed the eatery on the 2024 James Beard Foundation Best New Restaurant list.
MARYS, GEORGIA
The small coastal city is perched on the banks of its namesake river and is a popular stopover on the Intracoastal Waterway. Its 1566 Spanish origins bring incredible history, while proximity to 36,415-acre Cumberland Island National Seashore creates a paddling Shangri-La.
The Float:
The Greyfield Inn provides pro bono kayaks for guests. Explore reedy tidal creeks along the national seashore that brim with coastal birds like white ibis and tricolored heron. Then, paddle north to check out Plum Orchard, a preserved 22,000-square-foot Gilded Age mansion.
Eat / Drink / Stay:
Stay at Cumberland Island’s lone commercial establishment at The Greyfield Inn. The turn-of-the-century Colonial Revival-style manor is surrounded by mossy live oaks and features cavernous suites with period details such as paneled wainscoting, carved four-poster beds, and marquetry floors.
Indulge in half-shell oysters and craft beer or cocktails on the riverfront deck of Locals Dockside restaurant. The Greyfield’s chef, Luke Conrad, orchestrates sensational New Southern-themed menus built around local seafood and garden-sourced produce in an elegant, roughly 20-seat dining room.
PHENIX CITY, ALABAMA / COLUMBUS, GEORGIA
These sister cities are located about 1 ½ hours south of Atlanta, on opposite banks of the Chattahoochee River. A renaissance has turned Columbus’ waterfront district into a rich tapestry of public parks, restaurants, bars, cafés, and music venues—and helped the city earn its designation as an International Canoe Federation Center of Excellence.
The Float:
The Chattahoochee surges from the Lake Oliver dam through the fall line to create 2.5 miles of legendary rapids. More than $42 million in municipal investment has transformed the span into one of the planet’s most celebrated whitewater parks. Whitewater Express offers guided rafting that capitalizes on daily controlled-release schedules that shift the river from laid-back fun to full-throttle rage.
Eat / Drink / Stay:
Stay in an immaculately restored 1870s Second Empire Victorian mansion at the Rothschild-Pound House. Suite-style rooms are uniquely decorated, featuring a mix of modern comforts and original adornments such as stained-glass windows and mosaic tiles.
The festive patio at Nonic Restaurant & Rooftop Bar brings an impressive drinks menu and eye candy, just a few blocks away from the views of the Columbus Historic Riverfront Industrial District. Chef Jaimie Keating’s Epic Restaurant lives up to its name with three- to eight-course prix-fixe dinners in a dining room that doubles as an art gallery that would feel at home in New York or Paris.
These trips pair destination-worthy floats on scenic waterways with metropolitan-grade amenities for the perfect summer adventure.
