Embrace Shelby County’s smooth bourbon, pastoral beauty, and timeless traditions.
Words by Rebecca Deurlein and Nicole Letts
Photos by Ceramic Wisdom, Catherine Grace Photography
When America turns 250 years old in 2026, Shelby County, Kentucky, will be ready. The Shelbyville History Museum is gearing up with new exhibits, the Kentucky Black Trailblazers Experience is standing ready for visitors, and the Kentucky Derby, of course, will be one for the books. Shelbyville, Kentucky, the city at the heart of this county, has so much small-town, Southern charm that, if not for its four seasons, temperate weather, and green rolling hills, you’d expect it to be much farther below the Mason-Dixon Line. But it belongs where it is: in the heart of Horse Country, along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, holding onto its history and its Kentucky roots.
Rebecca’s Itinerary
♫ Horses, Horses, Horses ♫
Remember that line Meg Ryan sings along to in Sleepless in Seattle? Well, every time Nicole and I see a horse, we break into “horses, horses, horses,” so you can imagine the singing that went down in Kentucky. For an equine lover like me, Shelby County is somewhat miraculous because it is home to the largest Icelandic horse farm in North America. This is especially significant because, less than a year ago, I rode what I thought would be the one and only Icelandic horse that I would ever ride in my lifetime. I even got to bring the horse to tolt, a gait that is entirely unique to the Icelandic breed and feels like riding on a cloud. So when I discovered that I could ride these incredible horses again, right here in the South, well, I just about lost my ever-loving horsey mind.
Léttleiki Icelandics is home to more than 90 horses, all with long bangs that splay out like Dumbo’s elephant ears as they gracefully tolt around the ring or pasture. These horses are uncommonly friendly. They love eye contact, affection, and generous servings of alfalfa. You’ll love snuggling with them, chuckling over their gregariousness, and taking a riding lesson. And if you lean back just so, hold your reins short, and squeeze your legs while giving a little verbal cricket cue, you may even get them to tolt. It’s an exhilarating experience you’ll never forget.
Throwing Pots
It’s a strange term for making pottery on a wheel, but it’s true that, if you spin your wheel too fast or make a sudden movement while handling the clay, you can, indeed, send it sailing. Thankfully, trying my hand at crockery went pretty smoothly. That’s entirely thanks to the teachers at Ceramic Wisdom Workshop, a tidy shop on a cute little street in Shelbyville. Just schedule a class online and show up in some grungy clothes. You’ll immediately start at the wheel, and before you know it, you’ll be dripping water on the earthenware, balancing your elbows on your knees, adjusting your pressure on the pedal, and forgetting about everything except the smooth movements of your hands on the clay.
Making pottery clears the mind and is, honestly, quite therapeutic. For two hours, you will think of nothing but what you’re doing. You’ll learn patience as you ever so slowly pinch, stretch, and form a vase or a bowl out of a lump of clay. The ultimate satisfaction comes from achieving even coils from steady hands and finishing a piece that, yes, has obvious defects but, yes, still looks pretty darn good. It’s the type of activity you might dip your toe in when you’re on vacation and then decide to continue when you return home.
Nicole’s Itinerary
Putting on the Ritz
Even though this small destination is a half hour from the hum of Louisville, Kentucky, it maintains its own buzz, and the talk of the town is the Polkadotted Pineapple, where customers flock from across the state to select the perfect outfit and accompanying hat for the Kentucky Derby and other horse racing events throughout the year.
Owned by Dori Lewis, the Polkadotted Pineapple is flush with color. Dresses from independent designers fill the racks while custom Derby hats created by Lewis and her team of milliners line the walls. Customers can work alongside Lewis to create a custom hat that fits their event needs and personal style.
Shelbyville, Kentucky, the city at the heart of this county, has so much small-town, Southern charm that, if not for its four seasons, temperate weather, and green rolling hills, you’d expect it to be much farther below the Mason-Dixon Line.
During our trip, I was lucky to create a hat and walk away with a Polkadotted Pineapple original. I worked with Elizabeth Rosenberg, a milliner who sells her pieces in Lewis’ shop. I was fitted for a simple, French blue base hat before zhuzhing it with faux flowers, crinoline, and various types of feathers. Elegant peacock feathers make a strong statement, while petite duck feathers fill in empty spaces. As I pulled more and more materials from bins, Rosenberg got to work strategically placing and hand-sewing each accoutrement. The result is an over-the-top accessory perfect for any future visit to Millionaires Row at Churchill Downs.
Sipping Liquid Gold
Bourbon courses through Kentucky’s veins. Scots-Irish immigrants brought the majority-corn spirit to the region in the late 18th century, and it has been synonymous with the state ever since. Today, two distilleries in Shelby County produce and distribute the brown juice. We happily visited both.
At Jeptha Creed, a mother-daughter team uses heirloom Bloody Butcher Corn to produce their ground-to-glass bourbon and vodkas. Head distiller Joyce Nethery is a chemist by trade and a bourbon scientist by desire. Corn harvested from her husband’s crop creates the distillery’s signature smooth-finish, amber-colored bourbon. Sip the results in style during the barrel-tasting experience, which takes place in one of the distillery’s tobacco-barn-style rickhouses. Plush leather chairs line the base of towering barrels. Once seated, a Jeptha Creed host takes you through a tasting flight. Here, luxury meets approachability.
Take a short drive through Shelby’s pastoral setting to the visitor’s center at Bulleit Distilling Company. Founded in 1987, the company continues to be one of the industry’s fastest-growing bourbon brands, and its tasting room exemplifies why. A coffee station against a backdrop of a roaring fireplace welcomes guests. It’s a jigger of hospitality from the jump. Opt for a sensory tasting that presents Bulleit’s core portfolio, or head to the bar and select a cocktail. The outdoor terrace offers beautiful views of the distillery and grounds, and beckons you to slip into Shelby’s serenity.
Shop, Savor, and Sleep in Shelby
Experience Shelby’s deep roots through each step of your visit.
Shop:
Founded in 1947, Wakefield-Scearce Galleries is an expansive antique shop that spans 30,000 square feet and is housed in a former girls’ boarding school. The store specializes in English antiques, as well as sterling and plated flatware and hollowware. Grab the ultimate souvenir: a traditional pewter julep cup engraved in house with the name of Kentucky’s current governor.
Savor:
For a nostalgic meat-and-three restaurant, Claudia Sanders Dinner House is a must-visit. It was, after all, once owned by Kentucky Fried Chicken’s very own Colonel Harland Sanders, and the kitchen still prepares the original chicken recipe. Seeking lighter fare? Try McKinley’s Cafe, where a traditional Benedictine sandwich (cucumber and cream cheese) is served on bread made fresh daily.
Sleep:
Megan Terry renovated her grandparents’ circa-1870 farmhouse in 2023, turning it into an inviting rental in a bucolic setting. The Harbison House is a four-bedroom home beautifully outfitted with modern amenities, such as contemporary claw-foot tubs and a chef’s kitchen. It is situated less than 10 minutes from historic Shelbyville.
